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된장찌개 고갈비 보리밥집, 500원 인상
Food is one of the most enjoyable things for travelers in Asia
지난 68년 정식 개장한 죽도시장 건어물 골목 안쪽에 있는 이 식당 앞을 지나는 사람들은 20여년째 구수하고 그윽한 숭늉과 된장찌개 냄새가 발을 끌어 당긴다.
대통령임기말의 어수선한 시기에 식품의 원부재료와 채소, 생선 등의 가격이 지난해 하반기부터 오르기 시작하면서 2011년 채소파동에도 꿋꿋하게 착한가격을 유지했던 이 식당이 가격을 올렸다.
서민들인 죽도시장내 상인들과 물품을 구하러 나오는 사람들이 누룽지숭늉과 고등어구이, 된장찌개에 보리쌀이 곁들어간 밥집으로 이용하던 대화식당이 4000원이던 단일메뉴 밥값을 새해들어 4500원으로 인상했다.
이 가격은 분식점으로 시작한 지난 1990년 3000원으로 시작한 정식값이 95년 밥집으로 재 창업, 네번째 인상한 기록으로 23년 전통의 대화식당일지라도 지난 가을 4만2000원대의 쌀가격이 햅쌀이 나온 뒤로 10%가량 이상 인상이 된데다 이상 한파로 채소가격이 연이어 오른데다 고춧가루와 고추장 등이 덩달아 오르면서 4년 이상 버틸 재간이 없었기 때문이다.
여기에다 시장내 배달이 많은 노동집약산업인 밥집이 수년째 올려주지 못한 노임을 고려하지 않을 수 없었던 대화식당의 이순애 사장은 새해에 접어들어 500원씩 올릴 수 밖에 업었다며 현실정을 털어놨다.
이런데도 죽도시장내 건어물골목 안쪽에 있는 이 식당은 지난해까지 6개 테이블이었던 식당을 골목 맞은편에 한칸 더 늘려 12개 테이블을 운영하고 있으나 오전 11시부터 4시간 동안은 줄을 서서 기다려야 식사를 할 수 있을 만큼 빈곤 속에 풍요를 누리고 있다.
Food is one of the most enjoyable things for travelers in Asia. But do you know where to find its best street dishes?
Now you do, with this collection of best street food from 10 of the top food cities in Asia.
While the nature of mobile street carts and movable market stalls means pinpointing every dish isn’t possible, the listings below indicate roads in each city that are more than likely to have someone selling.
Start your Asian street food journey by clicking on a city on the left.
Vote for your favorite Asian street food here.
First published March 2012, updated February 2013.
◆ Seoul
Seoul is a city that doesn’t exactly embrace its street food -- street carts are illegal and the authorities are trying to get rid of them -- but that doesn’t stop the locals from enjoying every morsel.
Pojangmacha, or street vendors, line busy shopping districts selling sweets and savory snacks. Some operate in the open air, and others have small, portable restaurants that offer shelter from inclement weather.
Pojangmacha literally means "covered wagons," and their tented street food stalls are popular with the after-work crowd.
Later in the evening, pojangmacha serving soju, a Korean spirit made from rice, are the perfect place to drink on the cheap.
The many markets in town also offer places to try a wide variety of inexpensive Korean snacks.
 Paradise on a plate.
1. Tteokbokki
They used to be considered Korean royal court cuisine, but nowadays, tteok, or rice cakes, are found on street corners all over Seoul.
Tteokbokki is a dish made from cylinder-shaped rice cakes called garaetteok. The glutinous rice cakes are cooked with spicy red pepper paste and fish cakes to create this seriously chewy, seriously satisfying dish.
Try it at: Hyojadong Old-Fashioned Tteokbokki, Tongin Market, Tongin-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 Koreans know how to entertain their pancakes.
2. Haemul pajeon
This savory pancake is filled with a combination of seafood: oysters, shrimp, squid, clams.
It's a delicious and filling dish that's often served in restaurants as an appetizer or one of the small side dishes known as banchan.
Eaten at pojangmacha, haemul pajeon taste best when accompanied by copious amounts of alcohol.
Try it at: Gongdeok Market, Gongdeok Station Exit 4, Gongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
 Seoul's streets don't discriminate against vegetarians.
3. Gimbap
The perfect street food, gimbap is tasty and easy to eat on the go. Made from steamed white rice and gim (dried laver seaweed), gimbap can have many possible fillings.
Vegetarians can rejoice as most street food vendors carry a vegetable gimbap made with spinach, carrots, cucumber and pickled radish.
Try it at: 72-4, Insa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 A popular way to enjoy this dish is to dip it in tteokbokki sauce.
4. Sundae
No, it's not an ice cream dessert; it's a Korean blood sausage.
Traditionally, sundae is made of pig's intestines stuffed with vegetables, glass noodles and pork blood.
These days, when you buy sundae at pojangmacha it probably won't be made with pork intestines, but you'll still get a healthy helping of blood. It's especially yummy with salt.
Try it at: Gwangjang Market, 6-1 Yeji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 This sweet treat goes away in summer, so get as much as you can during the chilly season.
5. Hotteok
A snack that is most popular during the chilly winter months, hotteok is a pancake filled with cinnamon and sugar and cooked on a flat grill.
The heat causes the sugar to caramelize, creating a taste sensation that will both burn and delight your mouth.
Sometimes you'll also find black sesame seeds and peanuts as a filling for hotteok.
Try it at: Namdaemun Market, Jung-gu, Seoul
 Winter broth.
6. Odeng
You'll see these tasty fish cakes being sold all over Seoul at night, where they are often an accompaniment to soju.
Odeng are boiled in a seafood broth made from crab or anchovies with spring onion and daikon.
When you order, you'll get an extra cup of the broth to drink or dunk your odeng in.
Try it at: 72-4, Insa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 A blown-up wand from the culinary magicians of Seoul.
7. Gamja-dog
You have to hand it to the Koreans for this revolutionary twist on the common corn dog.
Realizing the difficulty inherent in eating both a hot dog and fries while walking, some ingenious vendors came up with the idea of jamming hot dogs onto a stick, dipping them in batter, covering them with French fries and then deep-frying the whole mess.
The result is as beautiful as it is satisfying.
Try it at: Myeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
 Classic buttery snack beloved by all.
8. Bungeoppang
A Korean pastry in the form of a carp, bungeoppang is made by pouring a sweet pancake-like batter into a fish-shaped mold similar to a waffle iron.
Red bean paste is added as a filling, and when it's cooked the result is a crispy-outside, gooey-inside treat.
Red bean paste is the standard filling, but you can also find bungeoppang filled with sweet potato, chestnut or cream. Usually only sold in winter.
Try it at: 72-4, Insa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 A healthy snack that's also savory.
9. Mandu
These dumplings were long part of Korean royal court cuisine but are believed to have originated with Mongolian traders in the 14th century.
Today you'll find them sold at pojangmacha as a cheap and filling snack. Thin-skinned and filled with minced meat, tofu, green onions, garlic and ginger, mandu are served with kimchi and chili-speckled soy sauce.
Try it at: Gwangjang Market, 6-1 Yeji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
 Cheapest, tastiest barbecue on the street.
10. Dakkochi
A popular street food that comes in many varieties, dakkochi are simple skewers of grilled chicken. Most often they are served with sweet, tangy sauce, but there are also spicy and savory dakkochi topped with anything from mayonnaise to bright orange cheese powder. Dakkochi are always delicious, but even more so alongside a few drinks.
Try it at: 72-4, Insa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
◆ Xi'an, China
Although perhaps most famous for the Terracotta Warriors, Xi'an is also known for its cuisine, a distinctive mix of traditional Shaanxi fare and Chinese Muslim influence.
The city’s Muslim Quarter is packed with tiny restaurants that spill out onto the street, along with more traditional street food vendors. Lamb is particularly popular with the local Muslim Hui population, and the air in the Muslim Quarter is filled with the smell of mutton roasting over smoky charcoal.
Night markets in Xi'an are also a good place to try the local street food. Here you'll find both Muslim-influenced snacks and specialties of Shaanxi Province, of which Xi’an is the capital.
 A noodle that cools down the summer heat.
1. Majiang liang pi
A variant of cold sesame noodles that is a Shaanxi specialty, liang pi are thick white wheat noodles that are served with tangy vinegar, salt, chili oil and nutty black sesame paste (maijiang).
The ingredients create a sensational flavor combination that is only improved by adding crunchy sliced cucumbers or bean sprouts.
Although you can get majiang liang pi in restaurants, on the street it's usually served in a plastic bag for easier transport.
Try it at: Muslim Quarter, Bei Yuan Men Jie, off Xi Da Jie, Xian, China
 Does anything that comes on little sticks taste bad?
2. Yang rou chuan
Yang rou chuan, or lamb kebabs, is a dish of Chinese Islamic origin that is ubiquitous in Xi'an's Muslim Quarter.
On the street known as Muslim Snack Street, men grill lamb that's been marinated in cumin and red pepper over hot coals.
The result, spicy, tangy and tender, is especially tasty during the cold winter months.
Try it at: Muslim Night Market, Bei Guangji Jie, Xi'an
 Perfect combo of persimmon and flour.
3. Shi zi bing
In autumn the streets of Xi'an are overflowing with red-orange persimmons and shi zi bing.
The dough for these small, chewy cakes is made from flour and persimmons, which give them their beautiful orange color.
A variety of fillings are available, including ground walnuts, rose petals, or black sesame, which are mixed with sugar.
The cakes are grilled until the outside is crisp and the filling becomes a sticky, sweet syrup.
Try it at: Damaishi Jie Night Market, Xi'an
 Like sunshine on a grill.
4. Kao anchun dan
Another specialty of the Muslim Quarter is quail eggs cooked on a specially designed griddle that has rows of small, round wells for the eggs and a groove to slide a skewer in.
As they are cooking, the quail eggs are brushed with sesame paste. The result is a stick of five delicious, bite-sized eggs perfect for eating on the run.
Try it at: Muslim Night Market, Bei Guangji Jie, Xi'an
5. Xun rou da bing
Lest you worry that you'll not be able to get any pork in Xi'an, xun rou da bing come to the rescue.
Smoked pork is wrapped in a crispy pancake with thinly sliced fresh onions and a mild, sweet sauce.
These greasy smoked pork rolls are the perfect companion for a night of boozing, and you'll often find them being sold near bars in the evening.
Try it at: Defu Alley, west of De Fu Xiang, Xi'an
 Eight treasures, one bite.
6. Babao meigui jing gao
Translated as “eight treasure rose mirror cake,” this is a Muslim treat that's made by putting unsweetened sticky rice into individual wooden molds.
The cake is sprinkled with sugar and a sweet sauce made from rose petals, and then one side is dipped in crushed nuts, the other in black sesame. Other flavors are also available, such as watermelon, red bean and melon.
The steamed rice is then removed from the mold with a skewer and served up as a sort of nut-covered rice lollipop.
Try it at: Muslim Quarter, Bei Yuan Men Jie, off Xi Da Jie, Xian, China
 Hamburger in a Chinese disguise.
7. Rou jia mo
Often called Shaanxi Province's answer to the hamburger, rou jia mo is a popular street food that's now found all over China.
A meat filling, usually mutton or beef -- although in non-Muslim areas pork is popular -- is stewed with more than a dozen spices until it melts in the mouth.
Then the shredded meat is served in a flatbread bun with sweet pepper and cilantro. The delicious combination is claimed to be one of the world's oldest sandwiches.
Try it at: Muslim Quarter, Bei Yuan Men Jie, off Xi Da Jie, Xian, China
 Cousin to Shanghai’s xiao long bao.
8. Guan tang baozi
A Xi'an specialty, these appetizing dumplings are similar to Shanghai's xiao long bao (soup dumplings). They're filled with mutton, beef or prawns and savory gravy that squirts out when you bite into the baozi.
They're served with a vinegar dipping sauce plus red chili and spicy Sichuan pepper.
Try it at: Jia San Soup Parcel Shop, 111 Bei Yuan Men Jie, Xi’an
 China's favorite breakfast.
9. Jian bing guo zi
Commonly eaten as a breakfast food, this tempting crepe-like dish is made of a thin mung-bean-flour batter and cooked on a hot round grill. It's filled with egg, scallions and a crunchy deep-fried stick of dough and then folded over itself many times and topped with a fried egg.
The dish originally hails from Tianjin, but you'll find variations all over Xi'an in the mornings.
Try it at: South gate of Xingqinggong Park, Xianning West Road, Xi'an
 Grand achievement of a kung fu noodle master.
10. Dao xiao min
These hand-cut wheat noodles, yet another specialty of Shaanxi Province, are sliced off a large block of dough with a knife into a steaming pot of boiling water, earning them the nickname knife-cut noodles.
When they're cooked, dao xiao min are either added to a rich broth and a spicy sauce or served with an eggplant and pork dipping sauce.
Try it: Near the Drum Tower, Bei Yuan Men Jie, Xi’an
◆ Manila
Manila is a city filled with street-food options. Most vendors are mobile and can be found walking up and down Manila's busy streets, crying out their specialties.
Whenever possible, foods are deep-fried, which makes them that much more mouth-watering and, as a bonus, kills germs.
Cold drinks and sweet desserts are also popular snacks in Manila's tropical heat.
Wherever you are heading in Manila, it's worth stopping for a few minutes and sampling the cuisine of the streets.
 Chicharron improved with chili = tsitsaron.
1. Tsitsaron
Tsitsaron is a popular snack that originated with the Spanish, who call it chicharrón.
These deep-fried, salted pork rinds are eaten with vinegar and sliced chilies or pickled green papaya, called atsara.
You'll find tsitsaron being sold all over the streets of Manila, as well as served in restaurants and homes as a pulutan, or finger food.
Try it at: Quintin Paredes Street, Manila
 Manila champions eat custard for breakfast.
2. Taho
A signature sweet of the Philippines, taho is sold every morning by magtataho, or taho vendors, carrying buckets on a pole across their shoulders.
It’s a custard-like combination of fresh silken tofu, arnibel made from caramelized brown sugar and vanilla, and sago pearls. Served warm and sweet, it’s a tasty Manila breakfast treat.
Try it at: Jorge Bocobo Street, Manila
 A little bit of gross yields a lot of satisfaction.
3. Balut
No mention of Manila street food would be complete without balut. Early evenings you'll hear vendors lustily shouting "Baaaaluuuut" on the streets of Manila, hawking fertilized duck eggs.
The embryos are allowed to develop for about three weeks before they're cooked and sold, meaning that when you crack into the egg you'll find an almost fully-formed baby duck -- complete with tiny feathers -- ready to be eaten whole with chili garlic and vinegar. It’s a crunchy mash of both egg and chicken flavors.
Try it at: Pateros, Metro Manila
 Bite-sized shots of protein.
4. Kwek kwek
A beloved Filipino street food easily recognized by their bright orange color, kwek kwek are hard-boiled, battered, deep-fried quail eggs served with a spicy vinegar dipping sauce.
They get their distinctive color from atsuete, a mild, peppery spice that was originally brought to the Philippines by the Spanish.
Try it at: Recto Avenue, Manila
 It's all in the banana ketchup.
5. Silog
The most common Filipino breakfast, silog is a word combining sinangag (fried rice) and itlog (egg) and is used to refer to any of the myriad of flavorsome, filling breakfasts that feature these ingredients.
Tocilog, or tocino silog, is sweet cured pork served with rice and a fried egg. Silog is usually served with chili sauce or banana ketchup on the side.
Try it at: Banchetto Shopwise, Parking lot of Shopwise Libis, Rodriguez Jr. Avenue Quezon City, Metro Manila
 All the intestine that you never knew you wanted to eat.
6. Isaw
In the afternoons, Manila is filled with vendors selling barbecued intestines, pork or chicken, on wooden skewers.
These chewy treats are cleaned multiple times, and occasionally even boiled for the sake of hygiene, before being grilled over hot coals. Isaw is best eaten right off the grill with a vinegar and chili dipping sauce.
Try it at: Mang Larry's Isawan, in front of the Kalayaan Residence Hall, University of the Philippines, Diliman, Quezon City, Metro Manila
 Kikiam. When in doubt, deep-fry it.
7. Kikiam
A Filipino dish with Chinese roots, kikiam are a bit like a dumpling or eggroll. Ground pork and vegetables are seasoned with five-spice powder and wrapped in bean curd before being deep-fried. They're served with a sweet and spicy soy-vinegar sauce and are fried to order.
Try it at: Outside of Saint Jude Catholic School, 328 Ycaza Street, Manila
 Manila's coldest sugar-high inducer.
8. Sago't gulaman
The best way to deal with the heat in Manila is with a big icy glass of sago't gulaman.
The drink combines sago, similar to giant tapioca pearls, with caramelized sugar water (sometimes flavored with pandan leaves) and gelatinous red gulaman, or agar jelly.
Although it's a beverage, the sago and gulaman offer a mouthful of chewy goodness.
Try it at: Quirino Avenue, Manila
 Barbecued banana. Almost healthy.
9. Banana cue
This simple yet popular street snack of a deep-fried banana coated in caramelized brown sugar can be found all over Manila.
The name comes from combining the words banana and barbecue. Although it's not actually grilled, it's served and eaten on a skewer -- and in the Philippines, almost anything that's served on a skewer is called barbecue.
Try it at: Padre Faura Street, Manila
 Formerly fish, now chewy, spicy morsels.
10. Fish balls
These small, white balls of minced fish are sold by roving vendors pushing fry carts.
When an order is placed, the fish balls are deep-fried and served on skewers with a variety of dipping sauces: a spicy vinegar-based sauce, a sweet banana ketchup and a sweet-and-sour option with hot chilies.
Try it at: Outside of Saint Jude Catholic School, 328 Ycaza Street, Manila
◆ Phnom Penh
Cambodians like to snack throughout the day, so it’s no surprise their capitol is teeming with street-food choices.
Depending on what time it is, you’ll find scores of different types of street cuisine being sold by roving vendors or at stationary street stalls that cook on small charcoal grills.
The local markets are also a good source of Khmer snacks, particularly Central, Kandal and Orussei, as well as the streets around the city’s many schools and universities.
Breakfast time and early evenings are particularly busy, as hungry students flood the streets, looking for fried noodles, Cambodian sandwiches and sweet treats.
 A classic with a Cambodian twist.
1. Num pang
Baguettes are a lasting legacy of the French colonization of Cambodia -- as in Vietnam, they are used for street-side sandwiches that are filled with a mixture of Eastern and Western ingredients.
In Phnom Penh the sandwiches are filled with pate, butter or homemade mayonnaise, spicy red chili paste, crunchy pickled green papaya and carrot and a type of pork bologna and served with soy sauce and fish sauce on the side.
Try it at: Outside Kandal Market, Street 5, Phnom Penh
 Breakfast that travels to you.
2. Nom banh chok
This popular breakfast food is often called the Cambodian national dish.
It's usually sold by women carrying the ingredients in baskets hanging from a pole balanced on their shoulders.
The noodles are made from fermented rice and topped with aromatic green fish curry gravy, flavored with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and turmeric root. Fresh herbs, bean sprouts, banana flower and cucumber are added for a pleasant, refreshing crunch.
Try it at: Russian Market, Street 440, Phnom Penh
 Eat at your own risk.
3. Num plae ai
These yummy small, round rice dumplings are filled with liquid caramelized palm sugar and topped with fresh coconut shavings.
They're sometimes called nom somlap pdey, or “dessert that kills your husband,” because the smooth, chewy texture makes num plae ai easy to choke on if you eat them too fast!
Try it at: Top of street 258 and Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
 Get in early.
4. Bai sach chrouk
Bai sach chrouk, or grilled pork with rice, is a simple and delicious breakfast food sold by numerous Phnom Penh street vendors, who usually sell out by 8:30 every morning.
Thinly sliced pork that's been marinated in coconut milk or garlic is grilled slowly over warm coals.
It's served over steamed rice, sometimes with a fried egg, a side of freshly pickled daikon radish and cucumber, and a dab of spicy chili paste.
Try it at: Kandal Market, Street 5, Phnom Penh
 Ask for the food and drink combo.
5. Coconut water
Vendors walk around Phnom Penh with carts piled high with young, green coconuts. They slice the tops off to order so customers can drink the coconut water with a straw. Cambodians believe that coconut water is extremely healthy, and many locals try to drink a coconut every day.
Once you’re finished, you can ask the vendor to slice the coconut open so you can access the flesh inside.
Try it at: Sihanouk Boulevard and Street 51, Phnom Penh
 Made to order.
6. Fresh fruit
One of the simplest but most delicious street foods that Phnom Penh has to offer is fresh ripe fruit. Vendors sell juicy pineapple, papaya, dragonfruit, watermelon, guava and green mango out of glass cases.
When you order, they'll offer to cut the fruit into bite-sized pieces, which are eaten with a wooden skewer, and sprinkle it with entirely unnecessary MSG, sugar and chili.
Try it at: Top of street 258 and Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
 Keeps the kids happy.
7. Mi char
Fried noodles are popular with students looking for an afternoon snack once school lets out.
Most noodle sellers carry a few options in their cart -- instant noodles from ramen packages, soft yellow egg noodles, or short, thick rice noodles.
They're stir-fried in fish sauce and soy sauce with beef and greens, and usually a fried egg is added to the equation. Most Cambodians choose to eat mi char with mild, sweet chili sauce.
Try it at: Central Market, Street 53, Phnom Penh
 Origin unknown.
8. Kuy teav
You'll find similar noodle soups in Vietnam and Thailand, but kuy teav is believed to have originated with Chinese immigrants in Cambodia.
Whatever its origins, the soup is a hearty breakfast made with pork or beef broth and thin rice noodles, and topped with fried shallots, green onions and crunchy bean sprouts. Sometimes the soup will also contains prawns, beef balls or pork liver and is served with red chili sauce with vinegar and sugar.
Try it at: Across from Pencil, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
 Eat with beer.
9. Ngeav chamhoy
Cockles steamed with chilies, fragrant lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal are an enticing late-night snack sold street-side and by roving vendors pushing carts with portable steamers.
Ngeav is the Khmer word for a type of native clam known as the blood cockle due to its red color, caused by hemoglobin similar to that in human blood.
Ngeav chamhoy taste best accompanied by a spicy chili sauce and washed down with a cold beer.
Try it at: Street 13, Phnom Penh
 Things are bound to get messy.
10. Num sang khya l'peou
This treat is as tasty as it is impressive. A pumpkin’s seeds are removed and then it’s filled with egg yolks, palm sugar and coconut milk. The top is put back on and the whole thing is steamed for half an hour.
When it's done, it's sliced to best show off the contrasting orange pumpkin flesh filled with smooth, creamy custard.
Try it at: Orussei Market, Street 182, Phnom Penh
Lina Goldberg is an American writer based in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A street food enthusiast, she has traveled the globe in search of the best roadside snacks.
You can read more of her work at blog.linagoldberg.com.
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